Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
